Escalando en el Cajòn Arenales

Many thanks, the leatherman has been indespensible from cooking to gear repair and all the places inbetween. I still have both of my arms. Don´t worry.

Asado

May, Emily, Mika, Hanna, Peter, Abbot, Nick, Evan, Justinand the rest of the crew.
Who´s interested?

Chacos. Need I say more?

Granite Goodness

Up the valley

One of our many sun bathing friends

Arenales. I don´t even know where to begin. Nothing there but cows, climbers, caballeros, the gendamerie and the seemingly endless amount of rosy granite.

In comparison to Matienzo Arenales is teaming with life. There is a plethora of spikey pokey plants and shrubs, small song birds, Andean Condors, spiders, and multiple species of lizards among other things. Much more exciting than scree as far as the eye can see.

Group climbing trips brought me back to ae week trips and those out to Vantage and Si. Having gotten use to climbing with certain people I kept turning around expecting to see you all there with me.

The group was 7 including myself, 2 instructors and 4 other students. The US is beyond me, despite signing waivers enough to sell my soul we were only allowed to top rope/mock lead due to IWLS/AMG´s insurance policy. When will people get over themselves and realize that shit happens and you might as well be having fun when it does? It's really utterly and truely rediculous. Torturous to be in Areneales and not be able to lead.

The climbing that we got in was really good. But with our group and how we worked we didn´t get in nearly as much as I was hoping to. There is everything there; sport, trad, and bouldering ranging from small and crimpy to jammy cracks. The only way I can put it into proportion is that there is enough rock to climb new and different routes all day every day for the rest of this life and a few after that. Insane and beautiful.

In addition to climbing we did a lot with building various kinds of anchors, practicing knots and different rope systems. We also ate a lot of meat. So much that it´s been joaked that we'll soon be meat intolerant. Three asados and a bit later. eek but I hadn´t tasted meat until I´d eaten asado here. Slow cooked goodness.

At one of the asados we had camp guests a group of three other americans from Mamoth and Yosemite, their friend from Germany and two friends of one of our guides Mike. Mike is originally from Washington but moved down here in ´98 or ´99 and is now a resident. Mike has climbed near everything down here and is a wealth of information as well as a mountain guide. His two friends Damien Benegas (http://www2.thenorthface.com/ap/athletes/athletes-DB.html) and Fernando Grajales(http://www.grajales.net/aconcagua/information/about-us.html). Grajales is the supplier of transport, mules and other services for Aconcagua and other expeditions here in Mendoza.


For some of you you´ll understand this and others it´ll be another language but here is an overview of what we covered rope and knot wise. If I have itme before I head out on Saturday I´ll post some pictures of these and or my diagrams of them. This is deffinately the part of the course that I got the most out of. Some very important and fun new knowledge to play with.

Anchors
-static
-equalizing
-trad
-sport
-natural
-belay stations

Knots and Hitches
-8 (on a bite, threaded)
-bowline (single, double, on a byte)
-double fisherman´s
-prusicks
-girth
-clove
-munter
-MMO (munter, mule, overhand)
-PMMO (prusick, MMO)
-rescue spider
-auto block
-water

Rope systems
-escaping the belay
-passing the knot
-transfering loads
-multiple belays

I´m planning my return or extended stay to climb down here. Who is serious about getting down here? Things once you get here are pretty inexpensive compared to the states. Things to think about eh? Did I mention that it´s also summer here?

Enough for now. Love you and would love to hear from all and any of you who read this.

P.S. a random to Steven and Camp Wisdom. Your wonderful sounds have been to 15,000 ft more or less.