Southern California. What a way to start being "home" again. Home most definitely not being Southern California for me. I landed in LAX the night of the 5th after a very long day traveling. Waking up in Lima Peru and falling asleep in Thousand Oaks, California at my Grandmas house. What a world we live in where that is possible. Two hemispheres, two continents and the airspace of a third in one day.
I was promptly swooped away by my mother and grandmother who I have seen for less than a week in the past year. Beyond words good to see my family. The past few days I have been immersed in family, cousins, aunts and the little man who turns 1 this week! There was also the Mission City Brawling Betties roller derby yesterday and McConnells Ice cream (the best on Earth! I worked there and I can still gorge on it). It has been quite the welcome back to America. Oh yes and there was sushi, lots of it!
They joys and also the downer that is being back. Everything is so clean, organized and proper, sterile, where is the chaos. Sure people drive a bit crazy here but even that is proper and quiet, no horns. I'll adjust I suppose, I don't have another choice.
I head home to the beloved Mendoland on Tuesday. Picking up my friend May in San Francisco to get a tad of climbing in and some city adventures first.
One of the things about going home that I am excited about besides seeing my fantastic family: sleeping in my own bed for the first time in far too long. A bed that is more than my well loved sleeping bag and a foam sleeping pad. A bed that is not a couch or floor space, a bed that is not a hostel bed that has seen hundreds of people and a bed that I will sleep in more than one night. It's funny what you miss when traveling an I'm not about to stop, the next round is domestic: the American West. California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, Arizona and probably more.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Thursday, May 5, 2011
El Tierra de Mis Sueños
The way down from Laguna Churup
The Rim of Laguna Churup
Mt. Churup 5495m from Laguna Churup 4450m
Partial view of the on the way to Laguna Churup, Huaraz
Trail up to Laguna Churup, Huaraz
Willkawain
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Huaraz
Quito, Ecuador
The past month in Ecuador has been fantastic but not without its challenges.
I already wrote a bit about out time spent in Tena, rafting and finally have the river names and classifications.
Jondachi + Hollin 4/3
Anzu 2
Jatunyacu 3
Post rafting we arrived back in Quito to meet up with Brian to hit the mountains and go backpacking.
For an alclimatization hike we did a day trip from Quito to a crater lake near Otavalo. This was a fairly relaxed hike that circumnavigated the crater and lake. Appologies as I'll have to post the name of said late later. Was a chilly and slightly drizzly day but nice none the less. Was a hint at what the weather would be like for the next two weeks: rain and cold, daily. Sun (aka BOB the bog orange ball) a rairity.
The next day we set out for El Altar. Rafael of World Bike (http://www.bikeclimbecuador.com/en/) in Quito drove us South and put us on our way.
Was a long day in arriving after dark most deffinately feeling the altitude and my big pack. We spent two days at the base of El Altar a blown out extinct volcanoe now home to a glacial lake. For spectacular pictures of the area and all of Ecuador check out the work of Jorge Anhalzer(http://www.jorgeanhalzer.com/). A really beautiful place despite the ever elusive sun and swamp sinking that was our mode of travel. I imagine a spectacular dream land when not the rainy season. Did I mention the equator can be damn cold? Who would have guessed? Not I.
After our four day trip to El Altar we were off for another hike after detour do to a change of plans due to weather conditions. Our next excursion followed an ancient section of the Incan road that use to conect Cuzco in Southern Peru to Quito in Ecuador.
After spending the night in the small town of Achupallas we began our three day trek to Ingapirca, home to the most important archeological site in Ecuador.
We were told by the local Peace Corps volunteer in Achupallas that it had been raining everyday for the past month, soo much in fact that many of the crops were failing. Just a perspective of the weather.
Setting off mapless we left the next morning to find a suprisingly beautiful morning. Hiking up a road out of town we soon came across the trail that would take us up to the valley and pass to the other side of the mountains. After some indecissiveness and lack of knowledge of our exact where abouts in relation to where we wanted to be going, we found our way with the help of several herdesses ensuring us that we were indeed on the correct trail to Tres Cruces. Their help was encouraging if nothing more than a "si" as due to a learning moment we did not take advantage of being able to make copies of the maps from the hostel. Brian doing his part in guide training played a very good part as back seat client. I learned a suprising bit from this and also reviewed much of what I had learned these past few months.
Note to self: Always take or make note of all relative information about where you are going even if those with you don't seem to think it important.
After our three days of swamp wading and squishing we arrived just in time to be rained on at the Temple of the Sun in Ingapirca. Go figure.
Huaraz, Peru
A fair day in the Cordillera Blanca. Early season for those who climb and otherwise venture. Sun warm but not hot thanks to the 3000m of elevation. The snowy peaks of the Cordilera tower around the town alluring and such a tease for me.
The past month in Ecuador has been fantastic but not without its challenges.
I already wrote a bit about out time spent in Tena, rafting and finally have the river names and classifications.
Jondachi + Hollin 4/3
Anzu 2
Jatunyacu 3
Post rafting we arrived back in Quito to meet up with Brian to hit the mountains and go backpacking.
For an alclimatization hike we did a day trip from Quito to a crater lake near Otavalo. This was a fairly relaxed hike that circumnavigated the crater and lake. Appologies as I'll have to post the name of said late later. Was a chilly and slightly drizzly day but nice none the less. Was a hint at what the weather would be like for the next two weeks: rain and cold, daily. Sun (aka BOB the bog orange ball) a rairity.
The next day we set out for El Altar. Rafael of World Bike (http://www.bikeclimbecuador.com/en/) in Quito drove us South and put us on our way.
Was a long day in arriving after dark most deffinately feeling the altitude and my big pack. We spent two days at the base of El Altar a blown out extinct volcanoe now home to a glacial lake. For spectacular pictures of the area and all of Ecuador check out the work of Jorge Anhalzer(http://www.jorgeanhalzer.com/). A really beautiful place despite the ever elusive sun and swamp sinking that was our mode of travel. I imagine a spectacular dream land when not the rainy season. Did I mention the equator can be damn cold? Who would have guessed? Not I.
After our four day trip to El Altar we were off for another hike after detour do to a change of plans due to weather conditions. Our next excursion followed an ancient section of the Incan road that use to conect Cuzco in Southern Peru to Quito in Ecuador.
After spending the night in the small town of Achupallas we began our three day trek to Ingapirca, home to the most important archeological site in Ecuador.
We were told by the local Peace Corps volunteer in Achupallas that it had been raining everyday for the past month, soo much in fact that many of the crops were failing. Just a perspective of the weather.
Setting off mapless we left the next morning to find a suprisingly beautiful morning. Hiking up a road out of town we soon came across the trail that would take us up to the valley and pass to the other side of the mountains. After some indecissiveness and lack of knowledge of our exact where abouts in relation to where we wanted to be going, we found our way with the help of several herdesses ensuring us that we were indeed on the correct trail to Tres Cruces. Their help was encouraging if nothing more than a "si" as due to a learning moment we did not take advantage of being able to make copies of the maps from the hostel. Brian doing his part in guide training played a very good part as back seat client. I learned a suprising bit from this and also reviewed much of what I had learned these past few months.
Note to self: Always take or make note of all relative information about where you are going even if those with you don't seem to think it important.
After our three days of swamp wading and squishing we arrived just in time to be rained on at the Temple of the Sun in Ingapirca. Go figure.
Huaraz, Peru
A fair day in the Cordillera Blanca. Early season for those who climb and otherwise venture. Sun warm but not hot thanks to the 3000m of elevation. The snowy peaks of the Cordilera tower around the town alluring and such a tease for me.
Since I left Ecuaor over a week ago I´ve been plagued with a persistant energy draining cold of sorts that prohibits mountain fun. Almost enough to make me want to cry. It is really that beautiful.
This being the most ill I have been in five months of traveling things are going great. So instead of climbing or hiking the past few days I have been strolling the streets and gorging my self with fruit and juices from the market and street vendors in attampt to kill the damned bug.
With all the time I´ve also been planning my return, and have been kicking myself for having to go back. The joys of being employed and having to be somewhere else. But Jackson Hole, Wyoming is not a bad place to work, not at all.
Willkawain
Willkawain is a near by archeological site that sits above the city of Huaraz. It was built around 900AC as a funerary building for the Elite.
From Huaraz I caught a Combi the half hour or so up to the site. A combi being a mini van built on a 3/4 scale that has magical powers like Marry Poppins´ carpet bag to always fit more. More people, kids, boxes of chickens, five gallon buckets and sacks of potatoes, and tall traditional hats with ribbons.
The structures are in amazing and intact condition. The interior of the main site is lit although dimmly so you can duck and crawl around the three different stories of beautiful stone work. Fascinating architecture and fun to explore but a little eerie to me despite all of the artifacts and mummies have long been removed.
There is a second part to the site a short walk farther up the road. Similar to the first but with more structures, the interior of the buildings are not lit so I refrained from exploring their inner workings sans a light. From the seccond site I took the marked trail part of the way back to Huaraz. After a short but beautiful walk the trail met up again with the road where I got on a combi heading back to Huaraz. While I was waiting for the Combi I met a local woman also waiting for the combi and provided some entertainment for two touristy vans that came speeding past; as an out of place gringa sitting on the side of the road. I recieved smiles, waives, looks of suprise and a dense coating of dust. All in all a nice day.
My last day in Huaraz (yesterday) I finally got the energy to go for a legit hike. Possibly the most dissapointing part of the last five months was being sick and lethergic in Huaraz (that or not being able to lead climb in Arenales, close toss up). As I only had the day I chose the near by trek to Laguna Churup.
Wanting to start early I had most all of my things already packed for the bus at 10 pm and my day bag packed with some essentials (lunch, rain coat, hat, sunscree, lighter, headlamp, camera, water... lot of essentials hmm) ready to go in the morning. I knew there was a combi for where I wanted to go but didn't know exactly where if left the city from. After asking several different combi spots I found the right one. Got up early and all for nothing as it didn't leave until 8:30 I had a solid 30min to people watch and be watched.
When we did finally depart we consisted of another American Jen, Freddy from Taiwan, a local woman who had come to town for the market, the driver and I and then we picked up three French backpackers out for a 4 day trip. Away we bounced to Llupa aka Yupa where we started our hike to Pitec the official start of the trail to Laguna Churup and park ranger check point.
Llupa to Pitec is a gradual uphill walk of about an hour on a well defined mix of road and trail.
The change of having a well defined trail was quite plesant. The second part of the hike from Pitec up to the laguna was a very steep and breath taking (in more ways than one) hike of almost 3 hours including some slightly sketchy scrambling over wet rocks.
Once at the lake we (Jen, Freddy, and I) found ourselves a comfy spot on some giant rocks for luch, and watching the clouds around the snowy peaks above us.
So happy to have gotten out and done something my last day. But doing so also made me realize how sad I am to have to leave Huaraz. Really is one of my favorite place I have had the priviledge to visit during these past five months. Huaraz truly is a land of endless mountains and the outdoorsy dream, heaven if you will.
Lima
Now I am back in the massivness that is Lima. Arrive after a sleepless bus ride at 5 this morning to arrive at the hostel and have to wait a half hour for them to open the door as they were sleeping. Packing all my stuff and organizing the duffel of gear I left here to find that it smells rather unplesant. Several month old dirty clothes, my favorite. Pictures and more another time. I return to the US tomorrow. EEK! See you soon, maybe?
El Futuro
Thought it might be fun to keep up the blog on my upcomming adventure in Wyoming and Arizona and where ever else I end up. The only constant being me and my outdoor gear it seems I've be come a more advanced outdoorsy "dirt bag" without a clear idea of where I want to end up other than the tops of rocks. Traveling looking for all the answers and only coming to more questions. Hmm. Ideas?
There is a second part to the site a short walk farther up the road. Similar to the first but with more structures, the interior of the buildings are not lit so I refrained from exploring their inner workings sans a light. From the seccond site I took the marked trail part of the way back to Huaraz. After a short but beautiful walk the trail met up again with the road where I got on a combi heading back to Huaraz. While I was waiting for the Combi I met a local woman also waiting for the combi and provided some entertainment for two touristy vans that came speeding past; as an out of place gringa sitting on the side of the road. I recieved smiles, waives, looks of suprise and a dense coating of dust. All in all a nice day.
My last day in Huaraz (yesterday) I finally got the energy to go for a legit hike. Possibly the most dissapointing part of the last five months was being sick and lethergic in Huaraz (that or not being able to lead climb in Arenales, close toss up). As I only had the day I chose the near by trek to Laguna Churup.
Wanting to start early I had most all of my things already packed for the bus at 10 pm and my day bag packed with some essentials (lunch, rain coat, hat, sunscree, lighter, headlamp, camera, water... lot of essentials hmm) ready to go in the morning. I knew there was a combi for where I wanted to go but didn't know exactly where if left the city from. After asking several different combi spots I found the right one. Got up early and all for nothing as it didn't leave until 8:30 I had a solid 30min to people watch and be watched.
When we did finally depart we consisted of another American Jen, Freddy from Taiwan, a local woman who had come to town for the market, the driver and I and then we picked up three French backpackers out for a 4 day trip. Away we bounced to Llupa aka Yupa where we started our hike to Pitec the official start of the trail to Laguna Churup and park ranger check point.
Llupa to Pitec is a gradual uphill walk of about an hour on a well defined mix of road and trail.
The change of having a well defined trail was quite plesant. The second part of the hike from Pitec up to the laguna was a very steep and breath taking (in more ways than one) hike of almost 3 hours including some slightly sketchy scrambling over wet rocks.
Once at the lake we (Jen, Freddy, and I) found ourselves a comfy spot on some giant rocks for luch, and watching the clouds around the snowy peaks above us.
So happy to have gotten out and done something my last day. But doing so also made me realize how sad I am to have to leave Huaraz. Really is one of my favorite place I have had the priviledge to visit during these past five months. Huaraz truly is a land of endless mountains and the outdoorsy dream, heaven if you will.
Lima
Now I am back in the massivness that is Lima. Arrive after a sleepless bus ride at 5 this morning to arrive at the hostel and have to wait a half hour for them to open the door as they were sleeping. Packing all my stuff and organizing the duffel of gear I left here to find that it smells rather unplesant. Several month old dirty clothes, my favorite. Pictures and more another time. I return to the US tomorrow. EEK! See you soon, maybe?
El Futuro
Thought it might be fun to keep up the blog on my upcomming adventure in Wyoming and Arizona and where ever else I end up. The only constant being me and my outdoor gear it seems I've be come a more advanced outdoorsy "dirt bag" without a clear idea of where I want to end up other than the tops of rocks. Traveling looking for all the answers and only coming to more questions. Hmm. Ideas?
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